Places we reside

A girl drawing with chalk on an outdoor terrace, with chairs and a bike behind her. Tropical plants and trees frame the buildings.

In the fall of twenty four we move apartments and I remember how much the place we live shapes our view of the world. I remember how much the things we discover and the ways we relax are shaped by our physical space, its location, and our attention to its decoration. In leaving our old place I say goodbye to the view, and to the neighborhood. In smaller ways I say goodbye to the quiet corners where I sat leaned against the floor to ceiling windows and to the balcony sized perfectly for the folding camping sofa. That sofa was one of my first purchases on signing the lease, an item long coveted and suddenly ideal for this balcony twenty seven floors up, able to fit either back to the house or along the side wall, looking out at the city.

There’s a long tail indeed now of apartments that have shaped where we put things, places we’ve created snug nooks and added bookshelves. Five apartments now of finding space for a liter box, from the first one that required sealing a section of crawlspace to the most recent, tucked under the edge of a bath tub larger than we’d ever purchase on our own. We’ve hung the same art on multiple continents, and re-arranged the same light panels on a variety of walls, aiming for shapes that reflect a new start, that retain the feel of our old homes. In our first Hong Kong apartment the light panels were spaceship-esque. In the current one they are a crab, copying a children’s book we love. Our inspirations shift, and the materials remain.

Some things we’ve standardized: the foreign currency remains in neat rolls but is no longer hidden in a closet. Instead a small set of Muji drawers holds both money we may never need and the stack of transit cards, bookstore memberships, climbing gym punch cards, and all the rest that remind us of how long we’ve been gathering. We keep a shocking number of business cards for no reason save the difficulty of digitizing them, the difficulty of parting with them. Each stack, of electronic component suppliers in Shenzhen, of packaging suppliers, of film extruders, of business development people and hotel concierges is a window to a world we remember but no longer visit.

In our new space we spend weeks painting and gathering plants, re-shaping the exterior to fit our needs. In the evenings we throw frisbees, ride tiny balance bikes, kick soccer balls, and do yoga on it. In the mornings we read magazines out of doors with our coffee and tea, subscriptions we’ve resumed after a half dozen years of avoiding paper. It’s a good feeling, to go backwards in these ways, and to have an outdoor space. It’s a new home for our small folding sofa, even if a larger set of chairs would fit. Like all apartment-dwellers we repurpose things bought custom for other spaces. The desk that rolls up into a set of drawers is a great part of my new office, two houses on from where it began. The tiny wooden chair, one of the only things we brought across the pacific, is perfectly at home in it’s fifth apartment, more in use than ever before. Much like the cat, who is happier than ever before, actively hunting at almost thirteen.

In Hong Kong the mystery of prior inhabitants is stronger than ever, almost every space re-shaped by some previous resident. Whole rooms and walls have been moved and created for helpers and twins long gone. A walk-in closet replete with aircon built for a banker with a library of suits to protect, and finally an open kitchen created for someone who likes to host, who likes to share breakfast across a counter with some children, as we now do daily. We repurpose some, the closet for a bedroom, the bedrooms for an office, removing doors, adding curtains, painting and spackling until we feel comfortable. Putting down the tatami in multiple rooms I wonder if future inhabitants will be able to smell the dry grass long after it’s gone, long after we have moved on. I wonder where their children will sleep, or whether they’ll tear out this remodel, now more than a decade old, for some set of spaces still unimagined.

I think about the secrets of old apartments I can no longer remember, of all the items that now reside in a Colorado basement, or were given away on leaving San Francisco. I think of our Bunjo chair, rediscovered in the mountains last summer, a joyful piece of furniture I’d long since forgotten.

My blue worm is in Tokyo,” says our daughter. And my other blocks”.

For a moment, like all our American friends with houses purchased on thirty year promises, I am happy to have another place, to have a place that will see fewer future residents, where the changes we make will be discovered by friends, will be remembered by our family.

And then I remember to embrace the temporary, to relish the interplay between our ancestors in residences and our as yet unforeseen homes, still occupied by people we will never meet.

Avoiding the unavoidable

We are all pretending to uniqueness, I think. In the winter of twenty five I am sick for much of three months. Slow coughs that do not fade, light headaches, stuffed noses, the occasional mysterious fever; each symptom of illness sweeps across me from the direction of our daughter to the direction of my partner. None of us appreciate this pathway, and the months of excellent Hong Kong weather past mostly with sniffles and discontent. We are, in many ways, exhausted, unable to compel our bodies to simply endure.

These are the struggles of toddler-hood, friends assure us. It’ll get better as she gets older.

We were all sick the whole year our daughter started school,” I hear, which does not carry the reassurance it might, given that we have not yet begun to plan for that next step.

The winter is the worst,” we are told, as though the season will not come again next year.

We try flu shots, staying indoors, playing outdoors, eating fresh fruit, traveling more, traveling less. We largely fail at the thing that would help most, sleeping more than 3 hours at a stretch. The thin walls, the lack of doors, the uncomfortable plane seats, the strange beds, the late work calls, the early work calls, the toddler, the world, something always prevents a deeper rest, and we pay a knowingly high price.

Fitness suffers, and yet we work out between calls, between travel, between other commitments, such that fitness retains it’s place as the third pillar of our life, after child and work.

We snuggle and hold hands furtively, across her sleeping form on long haul flights, briefly while she naps, or before we start another tough series of calls. We try to grant each other strength we do not feel through willpower alone, and sometimes succeed. In the early evenings we walk through the park to find the children and celebrate the beauty of Hong Kong, of this perfect weather, familiar to those relocated from San Francisco. The tones between 12 and 18 C are our home, and we relish their return, finding hoodies and pants we’d forgotten in Hong Kong’s extended summer sweat. As the sky shifts colors to evening we remind each other how lucky we are to be this tired, to be here and alive, to be parents to this growing human and partners to each other. We celebrate the world and the beauty we have found, even in our partial health, together.

Thus the winter passes.

Human interest

Looking over Santa Monica beach towards Malibu in the sunset, with the ferris wheel lit and the sky shifting from blue to orange and purple. Taken the week of the fires in the Palisades

On the move again, I watch passers by. People have always fascinated me, and traveling with a toddler increases the chance of interactions. In a hotel in Santa Monica we meet an older man because his grand daughter is the same age. He’s lived in Beijing and we have mutual connections in New York. The world surprises easily when we open up to each other. Toddlers provide a good vector.


On the beach our group of friends watches the children in loose rotation as we play frisbee. It’s the kind of community that builds itself, structured on no specific guidance other than care for one another. These groups take time to build, which is part of why we’ve flown across the pacific to be here. Time and distance may separate us, but children and plastic discs are strong ties.


In my home town the snow comes down in the mornings, and we sled on the front hill down into the street. The world feels quiet enough to forget where we have been, LA and airports in between. I’m sure I’ll remember these evenings, the reasons for all our days on the road. The toddler is happy, is sleepy, is learning, and I hope she remembers the outline of these hours.


Looking out at Brooklyn from the 36th floor, our friends’ belongings in boxes all around us, I am glad to stand here one more time. I think of our own view now gone, to the two years of waking to boats on the harbor and evenings spent watching the sun set on Hong Kong. Our friends are likewise giving up the view for a future, giving up the height for a longer-term home. Together we linger into the evening, entertaining the youth of tomorrow today and opening well-sealed boxes to look for whisky. in this soon empty apartment.


Our travels across America are always brief. We make quick hops into the lives of people we wish we saw more often, scenes of joy jump cut together with tired airport shots, with us carrying both bags and toddler around yet another set of boarding gates, yet another jet bridge. Eventually, we are home again, bodies weary and hearts full.

Far from home

Children play on the rocks with sailboats, the ocean, and container ships visible behind.

In Hong Kong’s winter we sit on rocks next to the ocean and talk to our friends. The breeze is brisk, and we wear jackets in between climbs. The months of shorts and tank tops, of sun screen, hats, and seeking AC feel like a distant memory. These spots, on the rocks near the water, are our hideaways. We found them first during covid, when there were no other places to go, and still they feel that way, refuges from the city.

The children are two, three years old now. Children who were not born when we first found these rocks. Children who were carried down to the boulders in slings, in backpacks, in carriers. Children who napped strapped to us, or tucked into shady spots, now rumble around moving snails industriously from one tidal pool to another. They cut their feet, or slip on the rocks, and keep going. We are building the next generation like this, outdoors on the rocks. Unafraid, at least for now. It’s a great break from airplanes and urban spaces, from rooftops and parks, from restaurants and malls. It’s a great break from the years since covid, where we’ve all gone back to our old lives, to our busyness.

Out here on the rocks we look at the ocean, at the tiny sailboats and the huge container ships, and talk about schools, about moving. The conversations aren’t urgent, because it’s Sunday and the sun is shining, because in the winter Hong Kong is a fantastic place to live, and because we all are, underneath, happy and lucky to be here. The questions about moving, about public schools in Canada or private schools here, are for future parents to solve, for our own future selves.

Those are Monday problems for Monday people.

Places I slept, 2024

Looking towards Tsim Sha Tsui from the harbor front near Sheung Wan on one of the last days of the year

As ever this endeavor reminds me of the things we leave behind, or will shortly. Tracking these lists, and reviewing them, points out changes I’d have otherwise ignored. Usually these shifts indicate job changes, such as my frequent crossings of the El Paso / Juarez border, which ended in 2014 when that job did. Sometimes what appears temporary becomes less so: I haven’t spent a night in China since 2019.

Our travel this year has the look of the familiar, which may explain why 2024 felt quite short. As planned, Japan has become a familiar zone. With visits in February, April, June, August, October, and November, we grew more comfortable in our new neighborhood. Watching Clara remember aspects of Tokyo and exploring it through her eyes has been worth every bit of effort. Even better, we were able to share the city with so many, from family to some of our oldest friends, an aspect of this gift we hope to continue.

Outside of Tokyo we traveled more for work and less for pleasure, with San Francisco for me and Vietnam for Tara the dominant features. Family-wise we limited ourselves to one whirlwind multi-stop tour of the United States, which features here as a chunk of familiar friend and family locations, all of which we’re grateful to have seen. We got enough summer eveningsto catch fireflies more than once, which had been a goal.

In this list of twenty seven beds (for me) I see the patterns of a new age, of toddler-hood and short inter-Asia flights, merging successfully with old habits built around long distance friendships and frisbee tournaments. It’s a good view of who we are trying to be, comfortably out here in the world.

Tai Hang, HK
Singapore (three times, three spots)
Otsuka, Tokyo, Japan (five times)
San Francisco, CA (three times, three spots)
Taipei, Taiwan (three times, three spots)
Oakland, CA (once, two spots)
Fort Collins, CO
Walden, CO
Manhattan, NY
Brooklyn, NY
Cherry Hill, NJ
Philadelphia, PA
Rumson, NJ
Fukuoka, Japan
Chennai, India (twice, two spots)
Bangkok, Thailand (once, two spots)
Atami, Japan

Prior lists visible here.