“They have a good Texas jukebox,” she tells me, of the oldest bar in Houston. “And a table shaped like the state.” The recommendation is enticing. Sports are on TV, and a few old-timers at the bar when we wander in from the rain and out again soon after.
“It’s the cheapest place in town, which is sad,” I’m told, not immediately sure where the sadness lies, in the bar’s mid-level prices or the fact that spots far dingier, bars with no building at all where the beer in coolers behind the counter and the seats under the stars or smog, have done it no better on cost. Indoors in this cheapest of establishments a neon sign glows, bulbs along the edges blinking sporadically. Cocktails, it says, the letters inside a giant curving arrow that points downwards and into a wall. In the garden out back a five-foot cabbage patch kid is dwarfed by the Kool Aid Man, his body wider than I am tall.
“It’s the talk of the town, that’s for sure,” a friend admits, and asks what I think. “It’s like the bars in LA I went to when I made money,” I offer. She nods knowingly. Well-designed, staffed by attractive people, a little industrial, big windows onto the street, not too much on the walls, no TVs.
“Let’s go somewhere we can watch the game,” we say, after driving to Austin in the afternoon. At tall wooden tables we stand, the walls open to the air, pitchers half-full, watching a few games, depending on our angle, long into the evening.
I am fond of all of these places in some way, glad they exist and happy to discover them as I re-discover America. In Asia the very words are a concept, the “American bar”. In Shanghai they have Filipino waitresses, if one is lucky, and Chinese bartenders, and their food is mediocre and expensive. In Tokyo they are chains, with laminated menus and soda fountains, competing with TGIF rather than local izakayas.
There are jewels everywhere, of course, and we grow fond of them in cycles, with certain groups. In Omiya for a while there was a bar with exposed metal rafters and a cat who wandered them silently above our heads. Eventually renovated it lost all character with the cat’s departure, and we followed the example.
Or the rocket ship, a concrete replica of a 1950’s Tom Swift craft, perched oddly atop an Omiya office building, home to a quiet space that held soft jazz and mid-90’s movie posters. An excellent discovery, only ever occupied by the bartender and a friend of his, content to let us establish ourselves in a curve of the hull our last few months in the country.
“There’s a room inside the old vault,” a friend says of a bar that was once a bank. I am there, one chilly evening a few days later, secure in many ways. Amid the plush leather furniture it’s easy to forget the bar’s unfinished wood and sawdust feel, or the copious amounts of vomit in the only urinal.
“We’ve lived in bars and danced on tables,”
Her voice is low and deep, not a thing of ambition but a fact of everywhere, played out in our lives and recommendations to new friends.
Quoted lyrics from Cat Power’s ‘Lived in Bars’ off of 2006’s The Greatest